Composition of Ram? Iron Horse?
Posted on Poppers Guide's Forum
Topic created by vVS
on Thu, 17 Sep 2020 at 15:13
vVS said on Thu, 17 Sep 2020 at 15:13...
Does anyone know the composition of Ram and/or Iron Horse? I have ordered these two and Rush as our first bottles ever. I was from what I have read, it would seem that the isobutyl/n-butyl would be more our speed.
My wife and I are really excited/nervous. I am looking for something I can maintain an erection with, while she is hoping for something strong but smooth. Any and all advice welcome!
wtfchuck said on Thu, 17 Sep 2020 at 17:15...
I would encourage you to go here as they use higher quality ingredients and higher quality control methods. They offer Butyl/Sec Butyl and it is more pure than OTC (Over The Counter) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARTISANAL-SOLVENT-CLEANER-ALKYL-NITRITE-MADE-TO-ORDER-FRESH/193585652179
As far as 'composition' (aka type of Alcohol) used for 'Ram' and 'Iron Horse'..First off, as newbies you have no real baseline to judge the quality and experience. So, you might think Ram and Iron Horse are incredible from a 1st time experience? Ram may say 'Propyl' - which is about as far up the Alkyl Nitrite 'Reactivity' chart you will want to go... IsoPropyl and beyond equals potential eyesight degradation over time. With 'Iron Horse' it might say 'Pentyl' which is basically 'Amyl'. As low as you can go on the Alkyl Nitrite 'Reactivity' chart and might offer a longer duration 'trip', just not as deep as say Butyl. Also, with Pentyl (aka Amyl), you might develop phlegm cough and lung congestion if you hit the bottle harder than say... Butyl.
----- Alkyl Nitrite Reactivity Chart -----
Strength; what is the strongest or best formula?
The best formula is the one that is most compatible with your metabolism. Molecular weight is a general guideline, but the isomers will also vary in vapor pressure. Least reactive to most reactive:
n- amyl (Pentyl)-------(any of the Amyl's are comparatively weak and irritate the throat more than others)
n-Butyl-------------------(the Butyl's are the sweet spot for duration and elation)
n-propyl-----------------(anything higher has potential for macular degeneration due to poor manufacture)
Many OTC brands are knockoffs and the manufacturer use a variety of alcohols. Most important, they will use cheaply sourced ingredient as regards Sodium Nitrite (Nano2). Many times the Nano2 will be 'food grade', poorly refined and not quality. Not to mention their 'wash' & 'drying' techniques and preservation methods. Many times, especially with China knockoffs they will 'cut' the final yield with Linseed Oil. This oil has been used as a Nitrite preservative. But, is also the reason why MANY Nitrites become bad, especially as you reach a half bottle from usage... all you have at that point is mostly Linseed Oil. Anhydrous Potassium Carbonate ('kcarb') and MS4a are far better for preservation and prolonging Nitrite decomposition, which actually begins occurring the moment Nitrites are made. Basically, there are many pitfalls you will encounter with OTC whether purchased locally, or shipped. I should say...Especially if it is being shipped. So, as you and your wife are new to this, the sooner you learn what to seek and what to avoid, the better and more enjoyment will be had. I would add, there are far better methods to how the both of you actually go about using the Nitrites. I would be happy to educate you on those aspects as well. Just have no idea how to contact you directly?
Hope this helps and gets you started in the right direction as my Wife and I enjoy this type of play and know from experience how incredible... or dismal it can be!
Popper Head said on Mon, 21 Sep 2020 at 01:26...
Well considering Ram is a trademark of Pac West Distributing (PWD) and they're not currently making that brand any more so its either at least 7 years old or fake. I will go with fake.
Iron Horse if actually made by PWD and not fake but if is 100% Isobutyl. However if you getting from someone selling Ram I guess it could be just about anything.
justChem said on Mon, 21 Sep 2020 at 19:44...
why Anhydrous Potassium Carbonate ? Everybody sugest Sodium Carbonate and Sodium Sulphate.Its really fustrating to choose the right one...
wtfchuck said on Fri, 25 Sep 2020 at 12:51...
Alkyl nitrites begin to decompose as soon as they are born. This is not only a problem for recreational use, but also for prescription nitrites (typically Amyl nitrite). Decomposition gases build up in sealed glass ampoules, and some were occasionally exploding due to the increased pressure.
Exposure to water, oxygen and heat speeds up the decomposition, and a typical 'fresh' bottle of high potency nitrite will become weak and/or acrid within hours.
After several trials, it was found that potassium carbonate greatly reduces decomposition speed. 0.5 to 1% weight per volume is all that's required to stabilize the nitrite.
Additionally, the use of molecular sieves will adsorb atmospheric water vapor, oxygen and some acids.
Together, these two stabilizers go a long way towards maintaining the purity and potency of your Alkyl nitrite.
There is one 'problem' with this stabilization technique, but in my view it's really not problematic, just an expectation bias. Most people I've talked with consider a 'hiss' of out-gassing upon opening a bottle of Alkyl nitrites to be an indication of potency (it is NOT), and these stabilization techniques will prevent the build up of gases within the bottle.
A 'fresh' bottle of unstabilized poppers will effervesce nitric oxide (NO) (the stuff it's saturated with). While it's true
that nitric oxide is responsible for the vasodilation effect, NO (nitric oxide) itself metabolizes in about 4 seconds. You don't really want to inhale NO (nitric oxide).
You want to inhale a compound that contains NO (nitric oxide), like an Alkyl nitrite (aka 'Poppers'), so that the NO (nitric oxide) can be released into the bloodstream (mimicking your body's naturally produced endothelial (NO) nitric oxide.
Stabilization with Potassium Carbonate (aka 'kcarb') and molecular sieve (MS4a = Pore Size = 4a) will prevent an Alkyl nitrite from off gassing NO (nitric oxide), yes (and that's really not a problem, as shown above), and it will also adsorb the build-up of toxic NO2 as the nitrite continues to decompose.
I've been using 1% kcarb (0.6 g) and 1 teaspoon of MS4a for every 30 ml bottle, and we have been unable to detect any drop in potency for the entire life of the bottle (assuming the nitrite is stored in a bottle, but dosed from a separate container, such that the storage bottle is opened only once per session).
The only caveat is that you should not shake the storage bottle. This will often turn the nitrite a bit cloudy, as the nitrite will slowly erode the substrate of most molecular sieves (a clay like substance). The odor will also suffer from shaking the bottle.
Many recent commercially produced 'poppers' contain no stabilization at all; with these nitrites, it's best to purchase them when they are freshly made, and when they have not been shipped by air (usually from overseas) where the reduced air pressure wreaks havoc on the nitrites, building up toxic by products.
As far as PWD products are concerned, they make a slight attempt to stabilize their product, but it's far too little effort involved, and the result is, in my opinion, underwhelming. First, the pellet in PWD nitrite is intended to be a desiccant (a water adsorber). Unfortunately, the cheap substrate they chose (some type of plastic) slowly dissolves in nitrite, releasing any water they had adsorbed; useless.
Second, as an attempt to stabilize the nitrite, PWD uses epoxidized linseed oil (ELO). ELO is an efficient acid scavenger and nitrite stabilizer at about 5%). The problem is that PWD uses 60% ELO in their regular strength products, and 20% in their 'extreme' or 'black' or 'radical' products. At these levels, the ELO is primarily a diluent, which explains why PWD stuff goes 'stale' when the bottle is about half empty.
I should mention that there are other methods of stabilizing Alkyl nitrites. Sodium carbonate will slow down Alkyl nitrite degradation, similar to Potassium Carbonate ('kcarb'); kcarb is reported to be superior in this regard.
An alternative to molecular sieve is activated alumina. Activated alumina is very similar to molecular sieve in that it adsorbs water and some degradation products (the molecules get 'stuck' in the pores), but molecular sieve is far superior in that the pore size is more uniform (4 angstroms in the case of MS4a), meaning it not only adsorbs more water, but also oxygen and acids).
Nitritespecialist said on Sun, 27 Sep 2020 at 16:59...
I have been using anhydrous sodium carbonate to preserve..along with MS4. Both seem to help. Recently, I had a bottle of n-amyl that was 3/4 empty. I tested it and it seemed flat/dead so I agitated the sediments a bit...no difference....a few days later I was about to pitch it when I took a quick whiff and noticed life in it. Took it for a test drive and really good stuff. No off odor...mild but with ample effects.